We are currently staying at a hotel called the Canoa, which was owned by a wealthy family as their primary residence. My room overlooks the Malecon, the boardwalk and the pier where the tour boats disgorge their passengers from rubber pontoon boats or small water taxis. I have a balcony and a hammock which I use to hang my wet wetsuit and towels (fyi, the sea lions have a really pungent smell and when you go to the beach and put your towel down, you have eau de lobo marino on your towel for the duration until you take it to one of the local laundromats for the $3 wash/fluff/dry). As I type, I am waiting for the miracle of clean clothes--I´ve been promised 3 bags of laundry back at 5:00. I´ll check on my way out, since we have Spanish class at 4:30 with Paulina Ratty. She has come every weekday to our hotel for lessons and the crew has made terrific progress, learning words like patacones, vajilla, phrases like ¨Siga no mas¨, and the reason NOT to use ¨¿Mande?¨ I am used to it from Mexico and have to rethink it since it is such a habit. Apparently, it comes from the conquest when the Spaniards would expect the locals to come at their beck and call and respond with ¨what is it that I can do for you?¨which is about what the word means.
Internet cafes are common here. It usually costs about $1.50 to $2.00 an hour to be online. I have finally found one with a fairly fast connection and a keyboard that I can read, the letters not rubbed off from overuse. We come to the cafes as often as possible to check email and send our friends back home little notes about the day´s adventures. Right now, the music is a great mix of Latino sounds with Regueton which is totally danceable. You can buy a great boat of fruit and ice cream at this one, the Mockingbird. Next to me, working on his email and helpfully answering questions about Spanish words and local sites is Manuel, whose aunt owns our favorite coffee shop, the Patagonia.
We like to go out before breakfast to the Patagonia to get coffee and have a stroll in the morning sun or garua, depending on the day. The owner is a very beautiful and gracious woman, Janet, who lets us bring our own pastries if we want to. She serves a great cafe con leche--very hot, just like I like it.
Meals here have been wonderful and usually served in fairly random order, as our waiter/all-around handyman at the hotel runs back and forth from the open air kitchen at the back of the hotel, beside the pool, to our table, usually at the front of the large veranda overlooking the ocean. We have a palm leaf covered ¨gazebo¨where we usually stay dry from the garua (ok, for those of you who have forgotten what it is, it´s the mist that wanders in any time of day or night in this season and really acts as rain.) Breakfast at 7:30 or 8 is usually some kind of fresh juice (tomate del arbol, pineapple, orange, coconut), croissants, jam, butter, honey, fruit such as watermelon, pears and pineapple, and eggs, usually scrambled with diced vegetables. We have great Galapagos coffee. (Hopefully, we´ll get to visit a coffee plantation tomorrow.) Lunch at 1:00 is a big meal. Today, we had a molded rice cup with red beans in it, a pork chop with sauce, a green salad, and fresh tomate del arbol juice. No bread at this meal. Sometimes we get dessert of fruit or ice cream or pudding. Dinner at 7:30 is often fish or meat with potatoes and vegetables or spaghetti and garlic bread, depending on what we were served for lunch. We have had yucca served fried for both breakfast and the other meals.
Ok, time for Spanish class. Hasta luego. Hope the laundry is done.
Thursday, July 26, 2007
Teaching at the Liceo Naval
Our teaching is completed. Today, July 26, we met with the English teachers from the Liceo Naval and had a write-around at one of the local coffee shops. (Not to digress, but the locals serve pancakes with maple syrup and a huge scoop of vanilla ice cream on top. I got pancakes with hot chocolate syrup from a big vat on the counter, the wonderful smell of it immediately giving me permission to forget the low carb thing.) We met with Liceo Naval teachers Veronica, Danielle, Wilson, Sandra, Robert, and Marie Antoinetta, the power behind the principal´s office. Melody opened with asking us to write on ¨What works in your classroom?¨ She had brought journals that she and Janel had made for them as well as some fun classroom things--flash cards with animals and pens. After we had eaten our goodies (including bolon verde which is fried balls of plantain with cheese), we got the conversation going. What a wonderful opportunity to see the similarities among dedicated teachers! The time in teaching spanned Liceo Naval teacher, Robert, with four months to Cynthia´s 35 years. Melody has just retired after 31 years of teaching. We talked about using authentic audiences and experiences, giving students permission to make errors, having professional organizations as resources, using writing as a process, realizing that students need to hear and see information, and using laughter to keep kids relaxed.
Afterwards, we all went out on the Malecon, the boardwalk along the shore, and took pictures of each other. Stay tuned for those pics.
Afterwards, we all went out on the Malecon, the boardwalk along the shore, and took pictures of each other. Stay tuned for those pics.
Snorkeling in the Galapagos
Most of us rented equipment in Salem and lugged it to the Galapagos. I got a short wet suit and fins and bought a mask and the snorkel. Salem Scuba was the best! I also got the defogging goop--free!
Our first snorkeling trip was from a boat at Isla Lobos. When I jumped into the water, the Humboldt current made the water about 60 degrees and I immediately hyperventilated from the cold. After a few minutes, I got warmed up enough to plunk my face into the water and take a look. We snorkeled with the sea lions and some of the group saw parrot fish. Factoid: white sandy beaches here are provided courtesy of parrot fish eating coral for generations and depositing the nice white remains which becomes the sand. I saw a bunch of small red fish swimming in schools among the rocks. Very cool. Literally and figuratively.
We´ve also snorkeled at Las Tintereras which Janel loves to call Las Tourettes. The entry there is through a long hike over mostly smooth gravel, sand and occasional lava rock/boulder to a small bay surrounded by cliffs. We climbed down big rocks to the water and used a fairly flat rock to get into the water. Once again, that good ole' current made sure we were happy to have the wet suits. Once in, I saw all kinds of fish--black with gold eyes, long turqoise with dark blue spots. On some rocks, some kind of big snail had attached with a shell that was pointed at both ends. I later saw these kinds of shells hanging from blue cord, used as planters in an ice cream shop.
Another day, we hiked to Punta Carola and entered from the rocky beach. The waves weren´t big, but the force of the water dragged you down when they went back out. Karen, Melody, David, Sarah and I tooled around and saw lots of fish, but no shells. I saw a tire on the bottom but it is the first ¨trash¨ I have seen anywhere in the water. Back on the beach, Janel and Cynthia kept guard, watching the sea lions plop themselves on the beach. When David got out, one of the big males bared his teeth and chased him up the beach, David´s mouth a perfect O as he beat a hasty retreat!
Today, July 26, Janel and Karen have gone to Guayaquil, Janel to return home, Karen to gather the new members of the group who will be visiting the islands with us. As I type, the remaining crew are snorkeling at La Loberia, the first place we hiked with the U of Arizona crew. In addition to the rocky cliffs where you can see blue footed boobies, you can find fairly flat beach, albeit rocky. Cynthia is going snorkeling for the first time. Can´t wait to see how she handled the cold water since she HATES to be cold!
Our first snorkeling trip was from a boat at Isla Lobos. When I jumped into the water, the Humboldt current made the water about 60 degrees and I immediately hyperventilated from the cold. After a few minutes, I got warmed up enough to plunk my face into the water and take a look. We snorkeled with the sea lions and some of the group saw parrot fish. Factoid: white sandy beaches here are provided courtesy of parrot fish eating coral for generations and depositing the nice white remains which becomes the sand. I saw a bunch of small red fish swimming in schools among the rocks. Very cool. Literally and figuratively.
We´ve also snorkeled at Las Tintereras which Janel loves to call Las Tourettes. The entry there is through a long hike over mostly smooth gravel, sand and occasional lava rock/boulder to a small bay surrounded by cliffs. We climbed down big rocks to the water and used a fairly flat rock to get into the water. Once again, that good ole' current made sure we were happy to have the wet suits. Once in, I saw all kinds of fish--black with gold eyes, long turqoise with dark blue spots. On some rocks, some kind of big snail had attached with a shell that was pointed at both ends. I later saw these kinds of shells hanging from blue cord, used as planters in an ice cream shop.
Another day, we hiked to Punta Carola and entered from the rocky beach. The waves weren´t big, but the force of the water dragged you down when they went back out. Karen, Melody, David, Sarah and I tooled around and saw lots of fish, but no shells. I saw a tire on the bottom but it is the first ¨trash¨ I have seen anywhere in the water. Back on the beach, Janel and Cynthia kept guard, watching the sea lions plop themselves on the beach. When David got out, one of the big males bared his teeth and chased him up the beach, David´s mouth a perfect O as he beat a hasty retreat!
Today, July 26, Janel and Karen have gone to Guayaquil, Janel to return home, Karen to gather the new members of the group who will be visiting the islands with us. As I type, the remaining crew are snorkeling at La Loberia, the first place we hiked with the U of Arizona crew. In addition to the rocky cliffs where you can see blue footed boobies, you can find fairly flat beach, albeit rocky. Cynthia is going snorkeling for the first time. Can´t wait to see how she handled the cold water since she HATES to be cold!
Monday, July 23, 2007
This picture shows the garua on the volcano. We were at the top but of course you can´t see us! We worked for several hours with the Arizona crew and some of the Liceo Naval students. You can see the red clay which became part of our boots, raincoats, and pants.
We cleared the berry bushes and planted some native plants so the slopes have native species.
July 23
We have been in the Galapagos and have almost finished our teaching. The group divided into teaching teams, including Sarah and Cynthia, Janel and Melody, and David and Megan. We spent a week at the Liceo Naval, teaching the older students for 4 days. We had a great time with teaching students about lava lizards and geckos, helping them to complete their science journals with the students from the University of Arizona.
On Saturday, we helped the University of Arizona crew clear berry bushes from the slopes of the volcano, Junco. It was a great day for the garua, the mist that is in reality rain. We were soaked within minutes. The red clay added to the fun.
We have been in the Galapagos and have almost finished our teaching. The group divided into teaching teams, including Sarah and Cynthia, Janel and Melody, and David and Megan. We spent a week at the Liceo Naval, teaching the older students for 4 days. We had a great time with teaching students about lava lizards and geckos, helping them to complete their science journals with the students from the University of Arizona.
On Saturday, we helped the University of Arizona crew clear berry bushes from the slopes of the volcano, Junco. It was a great day for the garua, the mist that is in reality rain. We were soaked within minutes. The red clay added to the fun.
Saturday, July 14, 2007
Welcome to Galapagos
July 14
The OWP group traveled from Salem to Portland to Houston to Guayaquil. We arrived at our hotel about 2 in the morning and got up and left for the airport about 5 so we were a tired group at the Guayaquil airport in the morning. We had a 2 hour flight to Baltra where we waited for a bus to take us to a boat to travel about 3 hours to San Cristóbal where we will teach. The boat trip was extremely rough with all of us in raingear to avoid being swamped by the waves in the semi open boat. Just trying to readjust a life preserver was enough to dump Karen on the deck as we slapped the bow on waves created by the cross currents and heavy seas. David found out what not to do when he tried to use the head. The only method of movement was crawling across the deck and trying to get into the tiny space with waves pitching us all up and down proved too much. Two of us scrutinized Neptune´s trident up close as others held onto legs to avoid losing both of them into the waves. We rode past the rock used to hide the pirate ship in ¨Master and Commander.¨
Finally, we got to San Cristóbal , home of the Liceo Naval, the Navy school, and our home for a month. Wonderfully clear azure water lies in front of our hotel, once a family home . Our balconies overlook the sea and we can watch the sea lions playing in the water and the pelicans flying over, cruising for fish. Our delightful tour guide, Miguel Mosquera and his daughter, Carlita, have been with us every day, providing tours of the island and insider info on the best places to do wash, find internet connections and buy ice cream.
On Friday morning, we were invited to a lecture at San Francisco Universidad (part of the Universidad in Quito) about the conflict of managing tourism, conservation of the land and sea, and the needs of the local people. Afterwards, we went to the Liceo Naval and were formally greeted by the officials of the Liceo Naval and introduced to the student body. Middle school students presented a typical dance in costumes. Then we were taken by boat to another part of Baltra where we hiked miles over lava beds to see the endangered sea gulls, found only in the Galapagos, and marine iguanas sunning themselves on rocks. Around the iguanas, salt turned the rocks and iguanas´ heads white. They excrete the salt from the water through a gland in their noses. Puff! We also saw the famous blue footed boobies, whose feet match the color of the turquoise sea. In our group were the students from the University of Arizona, our teaching partners for the Liceo Naval. They will work with students in a research project, counting lava lizards and geckos to see what their populations include and what kinds of factors affect them. We will provide the English instruction and help them create field journals.
Today, Saturday, we left by boat about 7 am for a Galapaguera, an area where tortoises can be seen in their natural environment. We hiked in about 4 miles, over some lava rock, on sand trails, through native Galapagos cotton plants. Tortoises plopped in the middle of the trail and we had to step over them. When they pulled their heads inside their shells, we could hear an air sound, like Darth Vadar. The breeding area lay behind a large hill and when we reached it, sure enough, it was total tortoise love. In all, we saw 30 plus tortoises. Hiking back out, we were glad to have extra water on the four mile, dusty trail. The temperature was about 80 with the sun beating down on us. Back at the boat, we took off our dusty red shoes and socks, waded out to the boat and devoured lunch, sandwiches, bananas and extra water packed for us by Miguel. Our captain deftly piloted us through a narrow opening between two rocks the height of a 4 to 5 story building so we could see the red crabs and juvenile black ones scurrying up the rock walls. He then took us to a rocky shore where we saw the frigates. The males posture for one another with a display of a large ballooned red throat. Cooling off after our dusty hike, we snorkeled with the sea lions. The young ones came up to our masks and whisked around us, even trying to get into the boat.
More coming. Stay tuned for more adventures of the OWP troop.
The OWP group traveled from Salem to Portland to Houston to Guayaquil. We arrived at our hotel about 2 in the morning and got up and left for the airport about 5 so we were a tired group at the Guayaquil airport in the morning. We had a 2 hour flight to Baltra where we waited for a bus to take us to a boat to travel about 3 hours to San Cristóbal where we will teach. The boat trip was extremely rough with all of us in raingear to avoid being swamped by the waves in the semi open boat. Just trying to readjust a life preserver was enough to dump Karen on the deck as we slapped the bow on waves created by the cross currents and heavy seas. David found out what not to do when he tried to use the head. The only method of movement was crawling across the deck and trying to get into the tiny space with waves pitching us all up and down proved too much. Two of us scrutinized Neptune´s trident up close as others held onto legs to avoid losing both of them into the waves. We rode past the rock used to hide the pirate ship in ¨Master and Commander.¨
Finally, we got to San Cristóbal , home of the Liceo Naval, the Navy school, and our home for a month. Wonderfully clear azure water lies in front of our hotel, once a family home . Our balconies overlook the sea and we can watch the sea lions playing in the water and the pelicans flying over, cruising for fish. Our delightful tour guide, Miguel Mosquera and his daughter, Carlita, have been with us every day, providing tours of the island and insider info on the best places to do wash, find internet connections and buy ice cream.
On Friday morning, we were invited to a lecture at San Francisco Universidad (part of the Universidad in Quito) about the conflict of managing tourism, conservation of the land and sea, and the needs of the local people. Afterwards, we went to the Liceo Naval and were formally greeted by the officials of the Liceo Naval and introduced to the student body. Middle school students presented a typical dance in costumes. Then we were taken by boat to another part of Baltra where we hiked miles over lava beds to see the endangered sea gulls, found only in the Galapagos, and marine iguanas sunning themselves on rocks. Around the iguanas, salt turned the rocks and iguanas´ heads white. They excrete the salt from the water through a gland in their noses. Puff! We also saw the famous blue footed boobies, whose feet match the color of the turquoise sea. In our group were the students from the University of Arizona, our teaching partners for the Liceo Naval. They will work with students in a research project, counting lava lizards and geckos to see what their populations include and what kinds of factors affect them. We will provide the English instruction and help them create field journals.
Today, Saturday, we left by boat about 7 am for a Galapaguera, an area where tortoises can be seen in their natural environment. We hiked in about 4 miles, over some lava rock, on sand trails, through native Galapagos cotton plants. Tortoises plopped in the middle of the trail and we had to step over them. When they pulled their heads inside their shells, we could hear an air sound, like Darth Vadar. The breeding area lay behind a large hill and when we reached it, sure enough, it was total tortoise love. In all, we saw 30 plus tortoises. Hiking back out, we were glad to have extra water on the four mile, dusty trail. The temperature was about 80 with the sun beating down on us. Back at the boat, we took off our dusty red shoes and socks, waded out to the boat and devoured lunch, sandwiches, bananas and extra water packed for us by Miguel. Our captain deftly piloted us through a narrow opening between two rocks the height of a 4 to 5 story building so we could see the red crabs and juvenile black ones scurrying up the rock walls. He then took us to a rocky shore where we saw the frigates. The males posture for one another with a display of a large ballooned red throat. Cooling off after our dusty hike, we snorkeled with the sea lions. The young ones came up to our masks and whisked around us, even trying to get into the boat.
More coming. Stay tuned for more adventures of the OWP troop.
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